Documentary photos capturing the Yem.

In the past the Yem dao, a pink blouse, or Vietnamese brassiere, was an indispensable part of a woman's attire. But even today, although not quite popular as the Ao dai (traditional long dress), the Yem dao is worn to display a woman’s grace and seductiveness. 

The Yem first appeared long ago in the life of women living in the old Kinh Bac (northern capital) area, but not until under the Ly Dynasty (12th century) was it considered as an auxiliary undergarment. Over the years, its design has been altered to display more aesthetic values.

Such a comfortable dress during sultry summer days.

In the 18th-19th centuries, a Yem was cut in the shape of a square piece of cloth that would hang in front of the wearer's chest. One corner of the square was made round to become the collar that was attached to two strings to be tied together around the neck. The collar can be cut in the shape of a slight V, or a bit deeper thereby exposing more cleavage.

Modern Vietnamese women like to resume using the traditional Yem with alterations.

On holidays or festive days, young women often wear a pink, rosy or purple Yem, with an outfit being a four-flap or multi-flap gown. On working days they wear a white or grey Yem covered with a brown shirt.

Rural women wearing the Yem at work.

In modern life, the Yem is especially highlighted on the fashion catwalks where its traditional and modern beauty is showcased. Many famous fashion designers, such as La Hang and Tien Loi have included the Yem dao in their creations.

The Yem is worn as costumes at artistic performances.

Fashion enthusiasts in Vietnam often tell the story about model Tran Bao Ngoc's trip to Italy. Ngoc spent countless hours searching for the right combination of clothes for her performance abroad and finally she decided to wear a Yem dao with a traditional skirt from the old Kinh Bac area. She worried a lot, thinking her attire wouldn’t be accepted on the catwalk. Surprisingly, at all parties and receptions, her dress drew much attention and interest from the crowd. When asked how she could have such a beautiful and suitable dress on her first trip to Italy, Ngoc answered: "I never expected such a positive response from the international audience. My attire is traditional, although there have been some alterations.”

Story: Tran Tri Cong
 Photos: Cong Hoan – An Thanh Dat – Minh Chau
(Vietnam Pictorial)